2005

Wine Spectator Jan. 31 – Feb. 28, 2005

Germany

A double play yields distinctive styles. By Bruce Sandersson

The past two harvests in Germany offer distinct choices for enjoying Riesling. The newly released 2003s are voluptuous, seductive wines, promising instant gratification. The 2002s are more classic, with ripe fruit flavors and tangy acidity.

...Wines from QbA, kabinett and spätlese quality levels are at their most consistent in the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Nahe and Rheingau regions. The ripe, tropical fruit flavors, rich, round profiles and softer structures render them forward and accessible. Their character should appeal to Americans new to German Riesling. Better still, many QdAs, kabinetts and spätlesen were actually ripe enough to qualify as auslesen. The 2002s, on the other hand, show much higher acidity, serving to focus the concentrated fruit flavors of apricot, mineral and flowers. They now have the benefit of a year in the bottle; though delicious, the best will continue to develop nicely over the decade...

Recommended Wines

$20 Franz Künstler Riesling Kabinett Rheingau Hochheimer Reichestal 2003



2004

Wine International 7/2004

Relocating Riesling

Due to its popularity, Riesling is now springing up all around the world. Charles Metcalfe attends a Riesling tasting and reports on which countries to watch out for and which offer the best value for money.

If Pinot Noir is the Holy Grail among red varieties, it's Riesling for whites. Both have the reputation of being ultra-pernickety about where they are grown. For Pinot Noir, it has always been Burgundy or bust. For Riesling, the spread was wider, with the great regions of Germany and Alsace being the best known...

...I came away feeling that what I value more than anything else in great Riesling is balance. Balance between sugar and acidity, minerality and fruit. An aromatic Riesling with a little sugar and good acidity is a very good partner for many Indian, Chinese and Thai dishes. Maybe that's where we should be looking next. I'm not convinced India or Thailand have the right climate (or type of rock) to do it. But China's a big place. There could be great Riesling vineyards there, just waiting to be discovered.

Rieslings To Remember

95 Weingut Künstler Hochheimer Hölle Auslese Trocken Riesling 2001

The Hölle vineyard has deeper, heavier soils than Kirchenstück, and makes richer, more full-bodied wines. The aromas here are ripe, opulent and exotic, but everything is still in balance. A fresh acidity enlivens the citrus peel and exotic fruits, and there's a creamy perfume as well. Delicious wine already, with power enough to last. Drink 2004.2015 £26.59 @RWD

93 Weingut Künstler Hochheimer Kirchenstück Auslese Trocken Riesling 2002

Gunter Künstler is one of the undoubted stars of the Rheingau, producing carefully considered wines that owe their quality primarily to hard work in the vineyard. Yields are always low. Kirchenstück is renowned for elegant, mineral wines, like this one. Aromas are floral, herby and fine. The palate is discreet, with creamy richness underlying the lean, poised, fragrant notes. Lovely young wine. Drink 2005-2015 £20.15 @RWD